If your Acura TL’s check engine light is on and a scan reveals P1364, you’re likely seeing symptoms like rough idling, hesitation during acceleration, or even stalling especially after the engine warms up. This code isn’t about fuel delivery or spark plugs. It points to a specific issue with the top dead center (TDC) sensor, also called the crankshaft position sensor “B” in some Honda/Acura documentation. Knowing what P1364 means and how to fix it correctly matters because misdiagnosing it as a timing belt or ignition problem can waste time and money.

What does P1364 mean on an Acura TL?

P1364 is a manufacturer-specific OBD-II code that stands for “TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption.” On Acura TL models (especially 2004–2008 with the 3.2L J32A3 V6), this sensor sits near the front of the engine block, just above the crankshaft pulley. Its job is to tell the ECU exactly where piston #1 is in its cycle critical for precise ignition timing. Unlike the main crankshaft position sensor (which reads crank rotation continuously), the TDC sensor only sends one pulse per engine revolution. When that signal drops out or becomes inconsistent, the ECU logs P1364.

What are the common symptoms of P1364 in an Acura TL?

You won’t always get a constant check engine light. Because the fault is intermittent, symptoms may come and go:

• Rough idle or stalling when stopped or at low RPM
• Delayed or hesitant acceleration especially from a stop
• No-start condition that clears after waiting 10–15 minutes
• Engine runs fine when cold but acts up once warmed
• Occasional misfire-like feeling without misfire codes (P0300–P0306)

These happen because the ECU loses sync with piston position and defaults to less precise timing maps enough to run, but not smoothly.

What causes P1364 in Acura TL models?

The most frequent cause is physical damage or contamination of the TDC sensor itself often from oil or debris leaking past the timing cover gasket. The sensor’s mounting location makes it vulnerable. Other causes include:

• Corroded or loose electrical connector (check pins for greenish oxidation)
• Broken or chafed wiring between the sensor and ECU (especially near the timing cover or power steering pump bracket)
• Faulty sensor due to internal coil failure (common after 120,000+ miles)
• Rarely: damaged reluctor wheel (the toothed ring the sensor reads) but this usually triggers additional codes like P0335 or P0339

It’s worth noting that P1364 is not related to camshaft position sensors, VTEC solenoids, or distributor issues those trigger different codes. Confusing it with similar codes like P1361 or P1362 is a common mistake during diagnosis.

How to diagnose P1364 on an Acura TL step by step

Start simple and avoid jumping to sensor replacement:

1. Clear the code and drive: Use a scanner to clear P1364, then drive under conditions that usually trigger it (e.g., warm-up followed by city driving). If it returns quickly, move to inspection.
2. Inspect the sensor and connector: Locate the TDC sensor (just above the crank pulley, behind the timing cover). Unplug it and look for oil seepage, bent pins, or corrosion. Wipe contacts with electrical contact cleaner don’t use brake cleaner.
3. Check resistance and signal: With the key off, measure resistance across the sensor terminals. It should read ~1,000–1,400 ohms at room temperature. Then, with the key on (engine off), backprobe the signal wire while cranking you should see a pulsing AC voltage (0.2–5V).
4. Test wiring continuity: Check for open or shorted wires between the sensor and the ECU pinout (ECU connector B17, pin 12 for signal, pin 13 for ground). Don’t assume the harness is fine just because it looks intact internal breaks happen.

If all tests pass but the code persists, consider whether the ECU itself is faulty though this is rare. More often, the issue is intermittent connection or heat-related sensor failure.

Can you replace the TDC sensor yourself?

Yes and it’s doable in under an hour with basic tools. You’ll need a 10mm socket, small flathead screwdriver, and a torque wrench (tighten to 8–10 N·m). The sensor screws directly into the timing cover. Be careful removing it: if the mounting threads are stripped or the sensor breaks off inside, you’ll need to remove the timing cover a much bigger job. Also, don’t reuse the old O-ring; always install the new one supplied with the sensor. Some owners report success using a font name to label their repair notes helpful if you’re tracking multiple sensor replacements over time.

What parts and tools do you actually need?

For most Acura TL repairs, you’ll want:

• OEM or high-quality aftermarket TDC sensor (Honda part # 37200-RDB-A01 or equivalent)
• New rubber O-ring (often included, but keep spares)
• Electrical contact cleaner and dielectric grease
• Basic socket set and torque wrench

Avoid cheap universal sensors they often have incorrect air gaps or resistance values and cause recurring P1364. Genuine Honda/Acura parts or reputable brands like Denso or NGK are reliable choices. If you're working on a similar vehicle, the process shares similarities with the step-by-step P1364 repair solution for Lexus IS350, though the sensor location differs.

When to suspect something beyond the sensor

If replacing the sensor doesn’t resolve P1364, double-check these less obvious items:

• Oil leaks from the timing cover gasket soaking the sensor housing
• Cracked or warped timing cover causing inconsistent sensor-to-reluctor gap
• Aftermarket ECU tuning that alters timing logic (rare, but possible)
• Ground issues at the engine block or battery especially if other odd electrical gremlins appear

Also, verify no other codes are present. If you see P0335 (crankshaft position sensor A circuit) alongside P1364, the problem may be deeper like a failing timing belt tensioner affecting crank gear alignment. That’s covered in more detail in our guide on what P1364 means for Honda vehicles.

Before ordering parts or pulling tools, confirm your Acura TL’s model year and engine code (J32A3 for 2004–2008). The same steps apply to many Honda V6 applications, including the Odyssey and Pilot which is why cross-referencing with the verified fix for Mazda6 helps spot shared diagnostic patterns, even if the hardware differs.

Next step: Pull the code again with a scanner, inspect the TDC sensor connector for oil or corrosion, and test resistance before buying anything. If resistance is out of spec or the connector is soaked, replace the sensor and O-ring it’s the fastest, lowest-risk fix.